Lead Coating Powder - Midnight Black

Product detailed description

Midnight Black is the go-to option when you want a dark, low-glare finish that still delivers a highly durable protective layer. Black is especially practical whenever you want to keep things subtle near the bottom—deep water, shade, stained water, or darker substrates where flashy reflections are not the goal.

Typical use cases include jig heads, cheburashkas, pilkers, screw-in heads, and end sinkers (paternoster/longline styles and similar rigs). On these solid lead pieces, the rubberized coating really shines thanks to its abrasion resistance—it holds up against rocks and bottom contact and stays usable for the long run.

The second key benefit is protection against oxidation in salt and fresh water. Salt water is the harshest environment (lead oxidizes fast), but freshwater use benefits as well—your lead stays cleaner and avoids the unpleasant surface film over time. Once coated, the lead remains protected and far more durable.

Compared to classic powder paint, this rubberized coating is denser, so consistent airflow is crucial when using a fluid bed—that’s why a compressor like Hailea ACO 208 makes perfect sense for stable, even results.

Midnight Black also works as a true everyday all-round finish. And if you want a subtle touch of effect, it can be combined with high-temperature SaboFlex glitters (lightly, to keep the stealthy character).

recommended coating process (proven):

1. prep: clean and degrease the lead (clean surface = coating sticks)

2. heat: heat the lead to about 160–200 °C (oven usually 10–15 min, torch only a few seconds — do not melt the lead)

3. apply the powder:

   • fluid bed: best for batch work; stable airflow matters (that’s why Hailea ACO 208 fits well)

   • quick dip: dip hot lead briefly and pull out immediately; shake the powder container first

4. tap off excess: keep the layer even

5. cure: for maximum durability, cure at about 180 °C for 10–20 min

6. cool down: let it cool in air or hang it

practical tip: for pilkers and end sinkers (salt or fresh water), don’t skip curing—this is where you’ll feel the biggest jump in abrasion resistance and long-term oxidation protection.

→ For all detailed technical information, see the Parameters section below.
↓ Below the product description you’ll also find related and similar products to help you choose and build a complete setup.