Coatings Paints

Lead coating powders for finishing jig heads, pilkers, cheburashka weights and carp leads. Choose standard, rubber coating, metallic, textured or NEON-UV effects according to the desired finish. A clean casting, even heating and a suitable fluid bed with steady airflow help produce an even layer.
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Coating lead castings lets you choose a discreet natural finish or a contrasting colour on a lure head. Green, brown, black, sand and mottled shades can be matched to weed, silt, gravel or rock. Metallic and sparkle effects provide a different visual finish on jig heads and pilkers. The appearance underwater depends on lighting, depth and water clarity; colour alone does not guarantee a catch.
The products are powder coatings applied to heated metal. The range includes standard powders and finishes sold as rubber coatings, as well as metallic, textured, fluorescent and afterglow variants. Select the finish and its instructions together; products that look similar do not necessarily share a baking schedule. Rubber coating powders in this range require more air than very fine powders when fluidised.
Standard powders: colours for lead jig heads, pilkers and weights; choose the actual variant and pack size.
Rubber coating powders: natural, camouflage and vivid shades; match the airflow and heating process to the material.
Metallic and textured effects: compare smooth metallic variants with Rough finishes.
NEON-UV and afterglow: distinguish fluorescence from stored-light emission; use the specified base and finishing layers.
A fluid bed uses air to loosen the powder so a heated casting can pass through it evenly. Adjust the air to a gentle movement without blowing material out. Amigo suits small castings and fine powders; Medium and XL provide more space for larger or longer parts. The XL extension increases working height. Choose an extension or spare cup for its actual fluid-bed model.
The air supply must suit the powder and fill level. APS 100 is intended mainly for small beds with very fine powder. APS 400 offers more reserve; the result with heavier rubber powders depends on the amount and setup. For regular rubber-coating work and larger fills, Hailea ACO-208 provides a stronger air supply. A small Amigo setup with rubber powder needs a suitably stronger air source and a limited amount of material.
Start with a clean, dry, degreased casting, free from burrs, oxidation and release-agent residues. Preheat it evenly, briefly apply the powder, tap off excess and bake according to that coating’s instructions. The tested practical procedure for the SAF rubber-coating shades uses approximately 160–200 °C preheating and subsequent baking at about 180 °C for 10–20 minutes. Allow for the casting to heat through; different Your Mold series have their own schedules.
For NEON-UV, apply a standard white powder base first. It forms an intermediate layer between the lead and the relatively brittle neon colour and provides a bright, even background. Apply the neon layer over it and complete the supplier’s coating system with a compatible clear topcoat. NEON-UV is a fluorescent effect, not UV-lamp curing; phosphorescent afterglow is a separate effect.
Coatings are applied to finished castings from suitable molds. Keep line passages, eyes and joints functional and fit PVC liners, plastic clips and glued-on eyes after the heated metal has cooled. The coating does not replace the mold’s specified inserts or make different rig components interchangeable.
Make one test piece before a batch. Powder consumption depends on surface area, shape and layer thickness, so the weight of a lead alone does not determine a reliable number of coated pieces per pack. Keep powders dry and closed and use separate cups when changing colours. Test small mixes rather than assuming all powder types or layers are compatible.
Work with ventilation, avoid breathing powder dust and follow the product label. Handle hot castings with suitable tools, keep workshop heating equipment separate from food preparation and wash your hands after working with lead.
Frequently asked questions — lead coating powders
Which coating should I choose?
Choose the shade and surface effect for the finished casting, then check its application and baking instructions. Rubber coating powders and very fine powders can require different airflow.
Why use a white base beneath NEON-UV?
Standard white powder paint forms an intermediate base between the metal and the relatively brittle neon layer and gives the colour an even, bright background. Add the compatible clear topcoat required for that system.
Does NEON-UV glow in the dark?
Fluorescence responds to suitable light. Afterglow stores light and emits it afterwards; choose a phosphorescent variant when you want that effect.
Which fluid bed and compressor do I need?
Match the casting size, powder and fill level. Amigo suits small fine-powder work; Medium and XL offer more space. APS 100 is mainly for small fine-powder setups, APS 400 has more reserve and Hailea suits heavier rubber powders and larger fills.
Is one temperature suitable for every paint?
No. Follow the selected coating’s instructions and distinguish the temperature of the metal from the oven setting. Include the time needed for the casting to heat through.
Why does the coating peel or form lumps?
Check surface preparation, even heating, dip time, layer thickness and airflow. Inspect one fully cooled test piece before coating the rest.
Can I coat a complete assembled rig?
Heat the suitable metal part and protect functional openings. Fit heat-sensitive plastic inserts, glued eyes and other vulnerable parts after cooling.
Can I mix colours?
Use small trials within a suitable coating range. Different powder types, clear coats and effect layers are not automatically compatible.
→ Match your paint to the equipment in fluid beds and air supplies.
↑ Compare the products above by colour, effect and pack size to build your coating setup.

