Lead Coating Powder - Silver Metallic

Product detailed description

Silver Metallic is the smart “lead-like” option: visually it stays very close to the natural lead color that many anglers trust as a classic, subtle finish. But here’s the bonus — it looks like lead, while actually protecting it. So you keep the proven lead-style tone, yet gain a durable coating against wear and oxidation.

It’s ideal for jig heads, cheburashkas, pilkers, screw-in heads and end sinkers (paternoster/longline style, burbot sinkers and similar setups). The surface is tough and holds up far better than bare lead when it meets rocks and bottom structure.

The key benefit is abrasion resistance — the coating holds, resists chipping and stays in place. At the same time it helps protect lead from oxidation in salt and fresh water. Salt water is the harshest test, but freshwater use benefits as well: your lead stays cleaner and usable longer.

In practice, this rubberized coating performs best on solid pieces of lead (jig heads, pilkers, end sinkers). Compared to classic powder paint it’s denser, so for consistent results a fluid bed needs stable airflow — that’s why a compressor like Hailea ACO 208 is a great match for this job.

Silver Metallic also works as a very universal base finish — subtle, natural and easy to pair with most rigs. If you want a touch more effect, it can be combined with high-temperature SaboFlex glitters (lightly, to keep the lead-like character).

recommended coating process (proven):

1. prep: clean and degrease the lead (clean surface = coating sticks)

2. heat: heat the lead to about 160–200 °C (oven usually 10–15 min, torch only a few seconds — do not melt the lead)

3. apply the powder:

   • fluid bed: best for batch work; stable airflow matters (that’s why Hailea ACO 208 makes sense)

   • quick dip: dip hot lead briefly and pull out immediately; shake the powder container first

4. tap off excess: keep the layer even

5. cure: for maximum durability, cure at about 180 °C for 10–20 min

6. cool down: let it cool in air or hang it

tip for the “lead-like” look: keep the layer thinner and heat evenly for the most natural tone. For end sinkers (salt or fresh water), don’t skip curing — that’s where you’ll feel the biggest difference in wear resistance and oxidation protection.

→ For all detailed technical information, see the Parameters section below.
↓ Below the product description you’ll also find related and similar products to help you choose and build a complete setup.